POST BY DAN ZEMPER (Team Trainer, Coach, And Owner of Zemper Restorative Therapy in Traverse City, Michigan.)

PART ONE OF TWO PARTS

Tuesday January 25, 2011

Well, it’s time for me to attempt stating my impressions from this trip that has just been completed. I knew this time would come, and at the halfway point of the journey, I knew that I would never likely be able to convey what it has meant to me. Still, here in the comfort of my own living room and before I get back to the everyday routine, I’ll try to make my one attempt to recap my experiences.

Forty hours is a long time, and I’ve never traveled that far to one destination in one sitting. I never take the direct route though, so I shouldn’t be too surprised at having to play hop-scotch across Europe on my way to Ethiopia. Once I made it, I found that I had missed an event that I wish I could have been part of. The Entoto mountains above Addis Ababa are where the top runners of the country come to perform long training runs.  I regret missing the opportunity to experience running there with the team. Following a troop of baboons would have been fun as well. Something famously experienced by out team that day.

The short-comings were short lived though.  I was thrown into the whirlwind the next day, as I expected. We began the run and I assumed the role of coach / therapist for our combined team of American and Ethiopian runners. This also included running the crew aboard the support bus. This part of my duties was to make certain that the runners had what they needed at any time, providing the water stops and food stops on the “regular” agreed upon schedule, as best we could. Plus, keeping an eye on them for their safety, as we were usually their only escort along some very busy roads.

The team makes their way southward.

By the second day of the run, my routine fell into waking up between 4 and 5 am, helping with breakfast, then loading the bus, making sure we had the supplies that were needed for each day. We’d then see the runners off for the day, and perform the duties as required throughout the days’ test. All while taking in the scenery as best I could from the windows of the bus. Occasionally I could get out and run as well, and that was a welcome change to be in the open, running in Africa.

After the run was over for the day with temperatures reaching well above what we are used to, we’d reach our hotel. Timothy Young, who so aptly and efficiently ran all of the logistics for the whole program, would find us the best available and affordable. Sometimes that meant a reasonably nice place that would rank on the lowest end of the scale in the states. Other times, well I’ve stayed in some absolute pits in the US, but this was, an experience. I soon learned that coffee and beer are a good combination. The alcohol would calm me after the rush of the day – so far. The coffee would keep me on my feet for the work yet ahead. Before or after dinner I would begin working on those runners that needed help with injuries and aggravations. I’d also oversee and advise on first aid for blisters, etc, that would crop up each day. It’s interesting to think back to those days of working on the runners on motel beds, patios and park benches. I still have to wonder what the people watching might have thought. At the time I wasn’t too concerned. When I could, I would find a place to help the others someplace where I had a view, so that I could take in more of the fine country. Usually by 8 or 9 pm my workday would end, and I would prepare for the next day.

Dan tends to Mary Moore's blisters along a roadside.

So that is how my days went on a regular basis. It was very busy, a literal whirlwind. Challenging, and even though trying at times, I knew all the while that it was rewarding. Unfortunately I became ill the last two days of the run and was unable to be with the team. I felt as though it alienated me, as I was physically unable to do anything, and this was a very physical undertaking. Unfortunately it was at the climactic finale of the whole event and I watched from the sidelines, sick. Fortunately it was at the end and this didn’t happen in the middle of the whole affair when my services and specialties were truly in demand.

When we started out on this escapade; I found myself working against an Ethiopian norm. A laid back outlook on life, where “now” means maybe in the next hour. Anyone who has been coached by me, knows what I think now means. This presented a real challenge from the bus driver to the helpers on the bus, (translator, Ethiopian runners not running that day, driver and his helper). We soon established a rapport, and because they are such a gracious people as a whole, they tolerated me and what I insisted needed to be done, and when. They learned quickly, and to their credit came to understand me better than I likely did them. They learned how to make peanut butter sandwiches, lots of ‘em. We cut up pineapple and oranges on plastic plates balanced on our laps while bouncing and careening along on a moving bus, dodging donkey carts, cattle, goats and people.

Each day the run started with a team member leading a prayer.

At first, the Ethiopians were relatively timid around us, a bit scared they later admitted. Soon we became very good friends with mutual respect for each other. Those on the bus became so proficient that when I went out to join the run the day before I came down with the bug, they would not let anyone else help out in running the operation. They had it, and they knew how to do it. That was so good to see. They had come around to understand the necessity of the timing, the safety concerns, the preparations, and they ran it like clockwork. Made me feel a bit useless in the end as I sat in a hotel room, the self proclaimed “ringmaster of the flying circus”. I worked to recover while they ran the show and did so admirably. I am proud of them, and that isn’t even something that I went there to accomplish. They, being young and inexperienced in this sort of thing, and in many aspects of life in general, stepped up and got the job done when they were needed most. Egga, Finet, Bizuayehu, Meroan, Zinashe, Said; they all did so well, and I wasn’t able to thank them enough for it.

I also want to express thanks to Ann Stanton and Jacob Wheeler. Both journalists who were along to document the whole affair, they jumped right in with helping me on the bus when things were really crazy in the first days. I don’t know if I could have made it through without their very willing help as we worked out the routine early on.

This brings me to my impressions of the trip as a whole. (no really, I haven’t even gotten there yet) The scenery was as expected, dramatic. The countryside is incredibly diverse, and we only saw central and southern Ethiopia. Mountains rising up from flat dusty plains. expansive lakes stretching on for miles and miles, surrounded by seemingly dry landscape. Rolling hills with vistas that would draw you in if you weren’t constantly on the move. Steep hills, twisting narrow roads, false banana, real banana, and coffee plants. A resort on a mountain top, with circular huts / rooms made of bamboo. Absolutely beautiful, and the most luxurious place that we had the pleasure of staying. (two nights, thankfully!) Watching the hyenas come in to feed at sunset, and learning that you can’t leave anything outside because they will eat it. Even your shoes!

My first concert experience with Seth and May was at the campfire at that same resort. (it won’t be the last time that I see them play!) Lush green countryside in the southern realm of mountains. The heat of the Great Rift Valley and all of its’ grandeur. Circular huts all along the way with thatched roofs and stick and mud walls. Block and mud walled buildings with tin roofs as the new upgrades. Livestock highways, sand, bright red soil. Driving – as a whole new adventure. Dodging all of the obstacles, and learning respect of the drivers and their abilities. Watching the local people enjoying music at support stops, seeing the children chasing soap bubbles while squealing with joy over this new experience. Timothy Young aptly put it that he “measures his days in Ethiopia by the number of near-death experiences he has had.” It is very true.

The runners involved in this venture surprised me. Possibly more than anyone, I knew what they were up against. The mileage was formidable, but that was just the beginning. Compound that with the fact that it’s summer time in Ethiopia. Hot can be an understatement. In addition all runs were at between 4ooo and 8500 feet of elevation, the sun is incredibly intense. I didn’t even want to admit what I thought the temperature was.  When asked, I low-balled my response, knowing it was likely ten degrees more. The runners went through sun block almost as much as they did water. Then add the terrain and many other factors, and it’s enough to scare off most any intelligent coach type. Of course, that’s no issue here for these hearty folks.

These ten American runners all had differing levels of fitness and experience. There were those who had never run a marathon distance before, let alone run consecutive thirty-mile days. What I found was that each had prepared themselves in their own way for the task at hand. Each had come to this event knowing that the real emphasis was already completed in having raised the money to build the schools, while attempting to raise the living standard for many people who would be affected by this. Beyond this, they had created for themselves a steely resolve to complete the venture, not even knowing what was in store for them. To create something more for people back home or elsewhere, to follow and learn from. Every mile was unknown, every obstacle a new challenge. All handled with great aplomb. I am very proud for them. I had very real concerns for them at the beginning, and they came through with flying colors, demonstrating what can be done by the individual, and what more can be accomplished as a unified group or team.

Come back tomorrow for Part Two of Dan’s recollection.

www.runacrossethiopia.org

POST FROM SETH BERNARD

Saturday January 15, 2011

Sitting on a robin egg blue wrap-around porch looking out onto a clear lake in Awassa. The path from the hotel restaurant to our room is covered in bright violet flowers that have fallen from the trees, they pop out against the reddish brown soil. There are birds everywhere, giant water birds with long hook-like beaks, soaring eagles, kingfishers, pure white little water birds, giant parrot like tropical birds with large beaks, love birds and on. Even the smallest little bird that would be our common sparrow has a little splash of unique color.

This morning we awoke with a group of visitors on our porch. Monkeys! They are little Grivet Monkeys and they are darling. They are everywhere and we have been feeding them bananas by hand. There are many mothers with their tiny little babies hanging on for dear life. They are a joy. Later in the day we also discovered a group of Colobus Monkeys too! They have giant paint brushes for tails. You can also take a boat from shore to see hippos out wallowing in the waters. I am in heaven with all of these little beings around us.
We are here and have had this day to focus on our songwriting. Our time in Addis was rich with musical inspiration and we found ourselves fueled with excitement, the creative juices are flowing! We have worked out four songs today and we have four more in the making and a few instrumentals floating around in our minds. We have had the opportunity to see some of Ethiopia’s finest musicians and have been welcomed by them with so much warmth. The music scene and the music is incredible. All of this leaves us really excited to record the album when we return home. Here are a few of the bands we have seen/met/jammed with.  These are Facebook links:
Working in the schools was incredibly moving and we learned so much from the children here. On Thursday morning we wrote two songs with the students at Mercado school Addis. The first song entitled “I love Animals” and the second “We are Inside Nature Always”. The kids wrote all of the words to the second song themselves in English and I can’t wait to share with you their insights. After spending three days at the same school it was hard to say goodbye to the children. We’ll miss them and we came to the conclusion that we’ll just have to come back again.
We met up with the group of runners yesterday and the families were finally reunited. What a beautiful moment to witness. So much love! The runners seem to be doing incredibly well and those of us on the sidelines are in awe of their strength perseverance and positivity! They have done three 30 mile days in a row! Now they get to taper down for a few days.
Well as I write these final words a giant tortoise is meandering across the lawn… Sending you all big love!
Missing you and looking forward to sharing more when we return.
love,   May and Seth
To return to our website please click this link, www.runacrossethiopia.org

POST FROM JACOB WHEELER via the Glen Arbor Sun

Original Post from Day 6 – January 13th

Though the Run Across Ethiopia harriers finished yesterday’s 30-mile run with their bodies intact and their spirits high, strategic holes emerged during the Day 5 performance. The runners failed to stay in a pack and some legged out the final miles as rugged individuals. As a result, they didn’t recognize immediately when a Team TESFA Ethiopian runner nearly pulled up lame.

Fast forward to this morning on the team bus leaving Ziway for Day 6, another tough 30-miler. Coach Dan Zemper — a late but very important addition to the run — held court with an allegorical story about how Canadian geese fly faster in a tight V formation because they remain in a pack, draft behind one another, and never let a single goose fall behind.

The runners took Zemper’s words to heart, remained in a pack today, and finished strong despite a vicious midday sun that beat through a cloudless sky. Mercifully, today was the last of four consecutive 30-mile days. The Run Across Ethiopia team has now completed 168 miles since Sunday, putting them 67 percent of the way to Yirgachefe.

To return to our website, please click this link, www.runacrossethiopia.org

POST FROM NIGEL WILLERTON

Saturday 15th January 2011

Our exertions during the previous five days where we ground out a 28-mile and then four consecutive 30-mile runs allowed the Run Across Ethiopia team a relatively easy seventh day on the road. We ran our shortest distance yet with a ‘mere’15-mile, 24 KM effort. It took us just over 3 hours to complete.

Spirits were very high after the luxury of both a lie-in and a full breakfast at our hotel at Lake Lagano which did not consist of hard-boiled eggs, PBJ sandwiches and, the crime of all crimes, black coffee with out sugar!! The pain of the last six days was almost forgotten.

The 15 miles almost took us to our lodging at Aragash. The RAE team’s cumulative mileage in a week is now 183 miles or 294 KM and that equates to exactly a marathon a day. As we close in on our destination of Afursa Waru, we are starting to see a marked increase in the poverty level of the local people in the villages we pass. It reinforces the teams understanding of the desparate needs in the communities and the positive impact we all hope and believe the Run Across Ethiopia can have.

The villagers themselves though remain as happy and as welcoming as ever in every community we pass shouting encouragement and the obvious question puzzling them  “Where you going?” they cry, “Jirge Chefe” we respond whereupon they look puzzled for a moment and then grin and shout “Very Good, Very Good!” It is great fun to just be a part of this great experience.

However, the run certainly still has its challenges for us as runners. Despite our strong efforts eating into the schedule and reducing the final distance left, the balance of the run will be extremely hilly. We actually started today with a near 2-mile or 3KM ascent. We also still have to work on our teamwork even more strongly ensuring we give each other full support. It can be great fun running with a significant crowd of locals, young and old, many of whom join us often for one, two or even three miles but that sometimes makes it tough to all stay together. It does of course also make the experience complete as you see the joy on the faces of those who just want to be part of the fun that is RAE.

Finally, I will finish by confirming the teams arrival at the fabulous Aragosh Lodge in the Ethiopian Highlands. This is a sprawling hotel where we are staying in bungalows with 4-5 people sharing a three-room open space. I am staying with Norman, Abera, Ichigu and Jacob.  The lodge has its own coffee plantation and the area is awash with wildlife including monkeys and hyenas. It’s certainly luxurious in comparison to some of our prior accommodations but I have to admit that best of all, it is run by a German family so everything like lights and showers actually work!!  (Here’s a video from journalist Jacob Wheeler.)

I would conclude that sadly for myself, we are nearing the end of our epic run but I have hope in my heart that the bigger and more important journey in delivering education for hundreds if not thousands of deserving Ethiopian children is just beginning.

To go back to our website click here, www.runacrossethiopia.org

POST BY CLAIRE EVERHART

Thursday January 13, 2011

We just completed our 5th day of running, also our 3rd of four 30 mile days. It was brutal but we made it! Believe it or not, the first 20 miles go by fairly quickly, it’s the last 10 that seem to take forever.

Long Road

We had several moral boosts as crowds of children in every village we passed through ran with us, some for over a mile, gliding over jagged rocks and thorny bushes in bare feet as though they were running on lush grass. Their skinny figures, tattered clothing and obvious lack of dental care does not stop the chorus of laughter that surrounds us the entire time they’re running.

Many will often grab one of our hands while they run, or say “you! you!” If we say it back they just double over in giggles. Matt Desmond has quite a way with them. He often can get the whole group repeating him in unison, as he shouts team member names or soccer teams. It is quite heartbreaking, however, when they all beg for our empty water bottles. One runner can often be surrounded by 20+ outstretched hands and only one empty water bottle to give out.  (Editors note: ironically, in America discarded water bottles are a nuisance along roadsides and in communities.  In Ethiopia these simple toss-offs are sought after commodities because of the value they have in being refilled with water from community wells. Ethiopia ranks as having some of the worst access to safe drinking water in the world.)

Water Pump

We have all been reminded of how easy it is to take for granted water always coming from the faucet.  Most here don’t even have faucets, and those who do, cannot count on water always coming, we didn’t have any water for several hours where we’re staying tonight, what a harsh difference from the states.

(Claire is a recent graduate of Ohio Wesleyan University and ran on their cross country team. She is an intern with Global Village Collection, one of our sponsoring partners in Delaware, Ohio.)

If you’d like to return to our website just click this link, www.runacrossethiopia.org

POST BY MATT DESMOND

Wednesday January 12, 2011   DAY 04 of the Run

Matt's Sore Feet

Day 4 of the run, 108 miles down, 108,000 mind-blowing strides, approximately! The Run Across Ethiopia team gelled today over the 30 mile run with an earlier start and extremely efficient support along the run: water every half hour, food every hour, no lolligagging. That added up to an earlier end time and about an hour and a half less in the hot afternoon sun.

We made big waves in the small communities we passed through, including many consisting of round, mud-brick, thatch roofed houses. Folks welcomed us even more heartily today. Adults and children joined us en masse as we passed by, some for several miles.

The highlight of the day was midway through the run when 60 or so people ran with and behind us, mostly children. A chant erupted from the kids: “Chelsea! Chelsea! Chelsea!” referencing the English soccer team. Nigel, our Liverpool loving British teammate was none too pleased! Soon, however, we were able to redirect the cheer to honor our visionary leader: “Treter, Treter, Treter!” The moment was well deserved for Chris and provided a timely pick-me-up for us all.

To return to our website please click this link, www.runacrossethiopia.org

POST BY ANNE STANTON

Anne created these posts on her Facebook page on Monday and Tuesday. I’ve copied them here.

Monday January 10, 2011  - Run Day Two

On this trip,  I often find myself looking around and seeing things I haven’t seen before; each sight is new– an adventure, a leap into hope. The school we visited has no running water, and the windows are cut out squares in the building. Two small rooms. The crayons are little stubs, and there is just a shelf full of books.

School Children

There are so many kids, about 7 of them, and they draw right on the concrete porch, which gives their art a bit of a serrated look. The bathroom is the kind they call a “shit pit,” where you position your feet on either side of the hole, and, um, squat and pee. The door is corrugated metal. The kids are expected to learn three languages in their little lives–Amharic, the local language, and English. And I mean, they are REALLY expected to learn them because they can’t funciton without the first two, and have to know English for secondary school. Seth and May were a huge hit with the kids. I talked to Chris Treter later about the less than wonderful physical aspects of the school, and he told me that it was better than what you’d see in coffee country further south. “To me it’s a human rights issue.”

We went back into town to eat with the team (no salads, wah! because of the potential to get sick), and then returned to the school. This little guy, maybe 7, attached himself to me and proudly recited to me the names of his body: eye, nose, ear, stoem-ec, foot,” So cute. He just held my arm as we went around the little sunny courtyard. Soon it was time to go, and he followed us all to the bus, and just as we were pulling out, he dived into the bus to grab a plastic bottle (which for some reason has great value), and just about got himself really hurt. But didn’t, thank God. After that, we started passing out empty bottles to kids, who think they are an absoulte treasure.

This is getting so long! But I can’t tell you how interesting everything is. We stayed at a hotel last night that had an Olympic size swimming pool, I kid you not. I joined some of the others after trying to deal with my issue of being seriously over-packed, and there was Jacob Wheeler in a bathing suit, wondering if anyone would dare him to jump off the high dive (despite the pool being closed). And he did. Wearing a very tight bathing suit. Nice party afterward where we met and interviewed Olympic gold medal winners. Mary Moore was so verklempt at meeting Derakatu Tulu, Ethiopia’s first gold medalist female runner, that she had tears rolling down on her cheeks.

Tuesday January 11, 2011  - Run Day Three

THE SNAP IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ROAD

Today, the team ran 28 miles (amazing), and I ran six (four, then one, then one), and it was hotter than hell. Poor Claire wasn’t feeling well at all and STILL ran 28 miles. As we were running out of town, this little guy in a school uniform broke away from his friends and ran with us, smiling and laughing–he was running fast, and just as I was getting worried about him, he ran up the driveway to his school. It was like that the whole run, little guys joining us, some even barefoot.  (Click the image below to see Jacob Wheeler’s video of a child with a huge backpack pacing the team.)

School child running

A “runner’s bus” follows the runners, and stops every 30 minutes with water, and every hour with some kind of sustenance. Even so, two of the runners “bonked” because they didn’t eat enough food. Every day, there’s a kind of recap meeting where we discuss went right and wrong, and everyone unaniomously agreed we need an earlier start because of the heat. I volunteered to help make pbj sandwiches in the morning (I start at 5:15 a.m.) Of course, time really doesn’t have any great meaning in my book since I am totally screwed up anyway; just today I’m finally getting my bearings as far as the clock goes (we are 8 hours ahead of EST in the US).

There were times today when I was the only white person on the bus with eight of the Ethiopians, who were rocking out with the Ethiopian music and chatting, chatting. The runners, of course, are rock hard. Two of the Ethiopian women went ahead of the group (probably frustrated with the pace), and ran all the way into town at which point another Ethiopian had to come and find them. They were kind of “timed-out” today on the bus but will run again tomorrow. Will close with this scene. We finished the run, and were walking to cool down, and we were at this beautiful farm where they harvest tef, and eight or so bulls were tethered together, minded by an 8 year old. A younger man with a pitchfork posed for pictures. (I’ll be sure to post some when I get back.) Anyway, I look over and there’s this man with a whip standing on the road, kind of whipping the air. Snap. WEIRD. I miss you all and will try to write again tomorrow.

If you’d like to return to our website click here, www.runacrossethiopia.org

POST BY JACOB WHEELER via the Glen Arbor Sun

Sunday January 9th, 2011

Jogging “the mecca” of long-distance running

Long-distance harriers from all over the world come to the majestic Entoto mountains just outside of Addis Ababa to train at high elevations surrounded by refreshing Eucalyptus forests … and even hairy baboons. The day before the Run Across Ethiopia team set off on a 250-mile, 10-day jog for Yrgachefe, we did a practice run (about 6 miles) at Entoto. Check out the videos below (and kudos to the burly RAE’er Jeffrey Metzler for chasing a team of baboons back into the forest!

Interviewing RAE organizer Timothy Young at the start of the run

Following a delicious Italian lunch, we jogged over to the coffee cooperative outside of Addis which works with Chris Treter and Higher Grounds Coffee. The workers greeted us warmly.

These fair-trade produced coffee beans await roasting.

To go back to our web page click here: www.runacrossethiopia.org

Post by Mary Margaret Moore

Here is a little bit about our run today!
Woman coffee
We all went on a wonderful run in the Entoto Moutains with some members of Team Tesfa Today! The Ethiopian runners are the nicest most patient runners ever! We each had someone to run with and practiced our Amharic. I ran with a young woman named MERON who helped me to get safely up and down the mountain without tripping over rocks and roots. She had a very peaceful countenance and was incredibly insightful (Even though she spoke only a couple words of English and I could only speak a few words in Amharic.) All of the Ethiopians I’ve encountered are the kindest, gentlest, most peaceful people, in fact!

Mary and Liam

Mary Moore and her son Liam in Traverse CityThe run was incredible and surreal!! We saw an old woman carrying a HUGE bundle of sticks on her back which were destined for building a house, I believe. We also passed some burros with loads on their backs who seemed to be pretty undaunted by us runners. When we got to the top of the mountain, at 10,200 feet, we saw baboons and decided to follow them. Additionally, we picked a few leaves of eucalyptus and inhaled their sweet invigorating odor to clear our lungs (well, Claire and I did that, anyway). The skies were blue and the air was fresh and I cannot begin to describe how dream-like and exhilarating the whole thing was! I don’t think there could have been a better way to spend a Saturday (“Kidame” is Saturday in Amharic, I think)!!

To go back to the Run Across Ethiopia/On The Ground website click here,  RunAcrossEthiopia.Org

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