POST BY DAN ZEMPER (Team Trainer, Coach, And Owner of Zemper Restorative Therapy in Traverse City, Michigan.)

PART ONE OF TWO PARTS

Tuesday January 25, 2011

Well, it’s time for me to attempt stating my impressions from this trip that has just been completed. I knew this time would come, and at the halfway point of the journey, I knew that I would never likely be able to convey what it has meant to me. Still, here in the comfort of my own living room and before I get back to the everyday routine, I’ll try to make my one attempt to recap my experiences.

Forty hours is a long time, and I’ve never traveled that far to one destination in one sitting. I never take the direct route though, so I shouldn’t be too surprised at having to play hop-scotch across Europe on my way to Ethiopia. Once I made it, I found that I had missed an event that I wish I could have been part of. The Entoto mountains above Addis Ababa are where the top runners of the country come to perform long training runs.  I regret missing the opportunity to experience running there with the team. Following a troop of baboons would have been fun as well. Something famously experienced by out team that day.

The short-comings were short lived though.  I was thrown into the whirlwind the next day, as I expected. We began the run and I assumed the role of coach / therapist for our combined team of American and Ethiopian runners. This also included running the crew aboard the support bus. This part of my duties was to make certain that the runners had what they needed at any time, providing the water stops and food stops on the “regular” agreed upon schedule, as best we could. Plus, keeping an eye on them for their safety, as we were usually their only escort along some very busy roads.

The team makes their way southward.

By the second day of the run, my routine fell into waking up between 4 and 5 am, helping with breakfast, then loading the bus, making sure we had the supplies that were needed for each day. We’d then see the runners off for the day, and perform the duties as required throughout the days’ test. All while taking in the scenery as best I could from the windows of the bus. Occasionally I could get out and run as well, and that was a welcome change to be in the open, running in Africa.

After the run was over for the day with temperatures reaching well above what we are used to, we’d reach our hotel. Timothy Young, who so aptly and efficiently ran all of the logistics for the whole program, would find us the best available and affordable. Sometimes that meant a reasonably nice place that would rank on the lowest end of the scale in the states. Other times, well I’ve stayed in some absolute pits in the US, but this was, an experience. I soon learned that coffee and beer are a good combination. The alcohol would calm me after the rush of the day – so far. The coffee would keep me on my feet for the work yet ahead. Before or after dinner I would begin working on those runners that needed help with injuries and aggravations. I’d also oversee and advise on first aid for blisters, etc, that would crop up each day. It’s interesting to think back to those days of working on the runners on motel beds, patios and park benches. I still have to wonder what the people watching might have thought. At the time I wasn’t too concerned. When I could, I would find a place to help the others someplace where I had a view, so that I could take in more of the fine country. Usually by 8 or 9 pm my workday would end, and I would prepare for the next day.

Dan tends to Mary Moore's blisters along a roadside.

So that is how my days went on a regular basis. It was very busy, a literal whirlwind. Challenging, and even though trying at times, I knew all the while that it was rewarding. Unfortunately I became ill the last two days of the run and was unable to be with the team. I felt as though it alienated me, as I was physically unable to do anything, and this was a very physical undertaking. Unfortunately it was at the climactic finale of the whole event and I watched from the sidelines, sick. Fortunately it was at the end and this didn’t happen in the middle of the whole affair when my services and specialties were truly in demand.

When we started out on this escapade; I found myself working against an Ethiopian norm. A laid back outlook on life, where “now” means maybe in the next hour. Anyone who has been coached by me, knows what I think now means. This presented a real challenge from the bus driver to the helpers on the bus, (translator, Ethiopian runners not running that day, driver and his helper). We soon established a rapport, and because they are such a gracious people as a whole, they tolerated me and what I insisted needed to be done, and when. They learned quickly, and to their credit came to understand me better than I likely did them. They learned how to make peanut butter sandwiches, lots of ‘em. We cut up pineapple and oranges on plastic plates balanced on our laps while bouncing and careening along on a moving bus, dodging donkey carts, cattle, goats and people.

Each day the run started with a team member leading a prayer.

At first, the Ethiopians were relatively timid around us, a bit scared they later admitted. Soon we became very good friends with mutual respect for each other. Those on the bus became so proficient that when I went out to join the run the day before I came down with the bug, they would not let anyone else help out in running the operation. They had it, and they knew how to do it. That was so good to see. They had come around to understand the necessity of the timing, the safety concerns, the preparations, and they ran it like clockwork. Made me feel a bit useless in the end as I sat in a hotel room, the self proclaimed “ringmaster of the flying circus”. I worked to recover while they ran the show and did so admirably. I am proud of them, and that isn’t even something that I went there to accomplish. They, being young and inexperienced in this sort of thing, and in many aspects of life in general, stepped up and got the job done when they were needed most. Egga, Finet, Bizuayehu, Meroan, Zinashe, Said; they all did so well, and I wasn’t able to thank them enough for it.

I also want to express thanks to Ann Stanton and Jacob Wheeler. Both journalists who were along to document the whole affair, they jumped right in with helping me on the bus when things were really crazy in the first days. I don’t know if I could have made it through without their very willing help as we worked out the routine early on.

This brings me to my impressions of the trip as a whole. (no really, I haven’t even gotten there yet) The scenery was as expected, dramatic. The countryside is incredibly diverse, and we only saw central and southern Ethiopia. Mountains rising up from flat dusty plains. expansive lakes stretching on for miles and miles, surrounded by seemingly dry landscape. Rolling hills with vistas that would draw you in if you weren’t constantly on the move. Steep hills, twisting narrow roads, false banana, real banana, and coffee plants. A resort on a mountain top, with circular huts / rooms made of bamboo. Absolutely beautiful, and the most luxurious place that we had the pleasure of staying. (two nights, thankfully!) Watching the hyenas come in to feed at sunset, and learning that you can’t leave anything outside because they will eat it. Even your shoes!

My first concert experience with Seth and May was at the campfire at that same resort. (it won’t be the last time that I see them play!) Lush green countryside in the southern realm of mountains. The heat of the Great Rift Valley and all of its’ grandeur. Circular huts all along the way with thatched roofs and stick and mud walls. Block and mud walled buildings with tin roofs as the new upgrades. Livestock highways, sand, bright red soil. Driving – as a whole new adventure. Dodging all of the obstacles, and learning respect of the drivers and their abilities. Watching the local people enjoying music at support stops, seeing the children chasing soap bubbles while squealing with joy over this new experience. Timothy Young aptly put it that he “measures his days in Ethiopia by the number of near-death experiences he has had.” It is very true.

The runners involved in this venture surprised me. Possibly more than anyone, I knew what they were up against. The mileage was formidable, but that was just the beginning. Compound that with the fact that it’s summer time in Ethiopia. Hot can be an understatement. In addition all runs were at between 4ooo and 8500 feet of elevation, the sun is incredibly intense. I didn’t even want to admit what I thought the temperature was.  When asked, I low-balled my response, knowing it was likely ten degrees more. The runners went through sun block almost as much as they did water. Then add the terrain and many other factors, and it’s enough to scare off most any intelligent coach type. Of course, that’s no issue here for these hearty folks.

These ten American runners all had differing levels of fitness and experience. There were those who had never run a marathon distance before, let alone run consecutive thirty-mile days. What I found was that each had prepared themselves in their own way for the task at hand. Each had come to this event knowing that the real emphasis was already completed in having raised the money to build the schools, while attempting to raise the living standard for many people who would be affected by this. Beyond this, they had created for themselves a steely resolve to complete the venture, not even knowing what was in store for them. To create something more for people back home or elsewhere, to follow and learn from. Every mile was unknown, every obstacle a new challenge. All handled with great aplomb. I am very proud for them. I had very real concerns for them at the beginning, and they came through with flying colors, demonstrating what can be done by the individual, and what more can be accomplished as a unified group or team.

Come back tomorrow for Part Two of Dan’s recollection.

www.runacrossethiopia.org

POST BY JACOB WHEELER – Glen Arbor Sun

Monday January 17th, 2011

Imagine that you’re a poor farmer in the Sidamo region of southern Ethiopia — an African herdsman — living in a mud hut by the side of the road. Imagine that you walk out your doorway into the sunlight one morning, and there at 7 a.m., a bunch of “ferenges” (“foreigners” in Amharic, probably derived from “Frenchies”) in skimpy running shorts are laying there on the grass, stretching. Imagine, too, that a couple white musicians are playing guitars and singing. You think, what on Earth! This scene has likely never happened before in such a remote part of East Africa.

But that’s just what form the Run Across Ethiopia took on Day 9. Earthworks musicians Seth Bernard and May Erlewine joined the team for today’s 16-mile run, which took us into the Yirgachefe coffee region, and a mere 36 miles from our ultimate destination on Thursday. At every water and food stop along the road, Seth and May lit up the crowds of villagers and children, who clapped, danced, and engaged in the sort of cross-cultural love and understanding that music knows best. At one point, RAE harrier Nigel Willerton requested a Beatles tune as he jogged by without stopping. Seth played “All we need is love”, and out of the crowd hobbled a weary old man carrying a massive rolled-up animal skin over his shoulder. He began hopping up and down and dancing to the song.

View videos below of Seth and May’s roadside performances, and other clips from Day 9 of the Run Across Ethiopia. 214 miles in the books. Just 36 to go!

The power of music in a village.

And even on a roadside during a short break Seth & May attract a crowd… and that leather peddler.  All you need is love… and a huge roll of leather.

To return to our website, click this link www.runacrossethiopia.org

POST BY AMALIA FERNAND

Sunday January 16th, 2011

Sitting underneath a tree of black and white colobus monkeys, I wonder what they think of my computer.  Leaf eaters, they spend much of their day chilling, eating, and digesting.  Their behavior is much different than the other monkeys that we have encountered in Ethiopia, the Grivet monkeys.  After leaving the bustling capital, Addis Ababa, to wind our way south through farmlands, villages and the occasional camel herd, we arrived at a hotel with  thriving population of begger Grivet monkeys.  Savannah monkeys, they are usually dependent on Acacia seeds and flowers, but at this hotel they have become obsessed with human food.  They stole it off the tables and out of bags and rooms and they apparently have a thing for undergarments.  Mamas with babies perched behind us at breakfast and pattering feet ran across the roof in the morning.

The hotel was located on Lake Owassa, a volcanically formed lake in the Rift Valley.  There we met up with the Run Across Ethiopia team of both U.S. and Ethiopian runners, reporters, medical support, drivers, musicians, videographers, and translators.  Seth Bernard and May Erlewine played a concert that night at a local restaurant and local Ethiopian musicians finished off the show.

Early the next morning, the first rays of the rising sun fell over the lake as I greeted the day surrounded by water birds and grivet monkeys and was so grateful to be out of the city.  We took a small boat out on the lake to search for hippos and witnessed the immensity of the second largest land mammal in Africa, weighing up to 7,000 pounds at over 12 feet long!  Hippos are hairless and their sensitive skin burns easily, so they spend their days wallowing in shallow water, socializing and digesting and they spend nights on land eating grass,  Their territorial nature makes them one of the most dangerous animals in Africa.  A large adult make can have lower canines above the gum at 18″ and lower incisors at 10.”  The hippos looked at us, they snorted, and they went on with their wallowing, giant eyes full of power, resting just above the water,

The Awassa Children’s House is home to 45 children aged 6-16:  http://awassachildrenscenter.org/#/who-we-are/4539259833

They are orphans and street children whom are given a safe place to live and an education.  I brought my Nature Explorers suitcase and spent an afternoon with these loving children.  Armed with magnifying glasses and binoculars, we explored their campus as we collected leaves for leaf rubbing posters,  We created leopard and Gelada baboon masks and the children were extremely diligent and creative workers.  The joy, the smiles, the laughter, the appreciation, the excitement, I wouldn’t trade it for anything in the world.

Today, I joined the run and was moved by the happiness that we brought to many hundreds of children merely by our presence.  The runners finished mile 198 today and I joined them in running through small villages and coffee plantations for a few of those miles.  I also traveled by the bus that stays close by the group and stops to supply water and food breaks.  On these occasions, the people came running to gather, to stare, watchfully, expectantly, curiously.  I blew bubbles for the children and to witness the universal reaction of a child to a bubble reminds me that everywhere, people are just people.  They jumped, they laughed, they chased, they loved, and I only wish that I could do so much more, bring them so much more, give them so much more.  And then I look around and I realize that I am.  This entire event is for them, for their education, to increase their standard of living, to give them a chance at a healthy life.  Most of them do not understand this right now, and they may never.  I only wish that we could spend more time with them instead of quickly moving through each village.  I wish that we could explain that the reason we are here is for them and that there are so many people out there who have donated time, money, and a piece of their hearts for this cause.

The last 2 nights we have stayed in the coffee growing region set amongst beautiful wooded hlllsides,  Each night, the second largest carnivore in Africa, the hyena,  came up to eat the food scraps and show herself.  Seth and May have been writing and tonight they shared some of their songs by the fire.  The moon reflects over the mountains and valleys of coffee plants in this region and I feel so thankful to be a part of this team and this amazing experience.

To return to our website click this link, www.runacrossethiopia.org

POST FROM JACOB WHEELER via the Glen Arbor Sun

Sunday January 16th, 2011

The Run Across Ethiopia expanded today, with Timothy Young’s daughter Stella, and Hans Voss’ wife Maureen and daughters joining us on Day 8. Filmmakers James and Jamaica Weston have returned to us after spending much of the past week in Addis Ababa. And even our local support crew — nurse Mamoosh and interpreter Egga — donned sneakers and left the van to leg out a few turns in the road. As such, the team that ascended 15 miles into the Sidamo coffee-rich region was nearly 20 people strong. We’ve become accustomed to villagers, and children in particular, swarming the runners whenever they pass along the road, but we got lucky today because Sunday meant that many were attending church. Fifteen miles completed today, which puts us at 198 since leaving Addis last Sunday. Only 52 more to go before the victory jog into Yirgachefe on Thursday.

The past two nights we’ve stayed at the stunningly beautiful Aragesh mountain lodge near the remote village of Yirgalem. We’ve slept and dined in a series of round bamboo woven huts that are constructed entirely of local materials and held up by one post in the center of the room. Such architecture reminded me of indigenous earth lodges and was a welcome departure from the urban grit of previous towns. Since Thursday, we’ve traded diesel exhaust, bass music thumping until the wee hours, heinous smells and old condoms found under a hotel room bed, for serenity, long walks into the green valley, locally grown (and sterilized) vegetables, a bonfire pit …. and wildlife.

Around dusk at the Aragesh lodge a groundskeeper throws food scraps down a nearby hillside, which immediately attracts giant vultures and hyenas — more wolf than dog, and the primary reason why Ethiopian runners never train along and before sunrise.

Tonight, northern Michigan musicians Seth Bernard and Mae Erlewine rejoined our crew, and played an after-dinner performance around the campfire. One could almost imagine the hyenas listening curiously from the forest below as the duo offered new songs they had written in Ethiopia, as well as the Johnny Cash favorite “Ring of fire”. Suddenly we looked through the smoke, and in a clearing on the other side of the fire pit, filmmakers James and Jamaica had begun to dance — they had become nymphs from the deep forest, their feet moving so rapidly and effortlessly that they hardly touched the ground. As graceful as Ethiopian marathon runners, I thought, whose bodies move forward always, instead of bounding up and down. Watching this was poetry.

To return to our website please click here, www.runacrossethiopia.org

POST FROM SETH BERNARD

Saturday January 15, 2011

Sitting on a robin egg blue wrap-around porch looking out onto a clear lake in Awassa. The path from the hotel restaurant to our room is covered in bright violet flowers that have fallen from the trees, they pop out against the reddish brown soil. There are birds everywhere, giant water birds with long hook-like beaks, soaring eagles, kingfishers, pure white little water birds, giant parrot like tropical birds with large beaks, love birds and on. Even the smallest little bird that would be our common sparrow has a little splash of unique color.

This morning we awoke with a group of visitors on our porch. Monkeys! They are little Grivet Monkeys and they are darling. They are everywhere and we have been feeding them bananas by hand. There are many mothers with their tiny little babies hanging on for dear life. They are a joy. Later in the day we also discovered a group of Colobus Monkeys too! They have giant paint brushes for tails. You can also take a boat from shore to see hippos out wallowing in the waters. I am in heaven with all of these little beings around us.
We are here and have had this day to focus on our songwriting. Our time in Addis was rich with musical inspiration and we found ourselves fueled with excitement, the creative juices are flowing! We have worked out four songs today and we have four more in the making and a few instrumentals floating around in our minds. We have had the opportunity to see some of Ethiopia’s finest musicians and have been welcomed by them with so much warmth. The music scene and the music is incredible. All of this leaves us really excited to record the album when we return home. Here are a few of the bands we have seen/met/jammed with.  These are Facebook links:
Working in the schools was incredibly moving and we learned so much from the children here. On Thursday morning we wrote two songs with the students at Mercado school Addis. The first song entitled “I love Animals” and the second “We are Inside Nature Always”. The kids wrote all of the words to the second song themselves in English and I can’t wait to share with you their insights. After spending three days at the same school it was hard to say goodbye to the children. We’ll miss them and we came to the conclusion that we’ll just have to come back again.
We met up with the group of runners yesterday and the families were finally reunited. What a beautiful moment to witness. So much love! The runners seem to be doing incredibly well and those of us on the sidelines are in awe of their strength perseverance and positivity! They have done three 30 mile days in a row! Now they get to taper down for a few days.
Well as I write these final words a giant tortoise is meandering across the lawn… Sending you all big love!
Missing you and looking forward to sharing more when we return.
love,   May and Seth
To return to our website please click this link, www.runacrossethiopia.org

POST BY AMALIA FERNAND

Friday January 14, 2011

Vast plains of sand spread below the airplane window as the orange light of the setting sun illuminated sandy peaks and a winding river.  The Sahara desert is the largest in the world, covering one third of the African continent!  Looking out over that endless desert, the immensity and ancientness of Africa becomes more present and the journey that I am about to embark on more real.  A thin band of orange rings the horizon as the deep blue of night sinks down upon the earth.  I think of the many nocturnal desert creatures as they leave their underground homes to enjoy the cool reprise of the evening and can’t help but be enchanted by the mysteries that a desert beholds.  Is there a Saharan cheetah down there, poised and ready to run?  Is there a wild gerbil, poking his head above the sand and scanning the sky for raptors?  Are there crocodiles in that river?  Can people really live within that vast emptiness?  Two small children peak over their seat at me, exclaiming loudly in their native language and I know that I am on the other side of the world.

I left the icicle draped snowy world of Traverse CIty Michigan on Monday to fly to Detroit, and then across the Atlantic Ocean to Amsterdam.  From there the plane turned South to Khartoum, Sudan, and then on to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia.  After 27 hours of travel, we arrived in an ancient land.  The cradle of human kind, Ethiopia is where our hominid ancestors evolved.  The only country in Africa, except for Liberia, that has never been colonized, the culture here is vibrant and deeply rooted.  We have spent the last 2 days in the capital city of Addis Ababa.  In this bustling city of 8 million people, poverty is apparent, yet so is love and compassion and the importance of family and community.

I will be sharing my experiences with you as regularly as I can!

Return to our website by clicking here, www.runacrossethiopia.org

Monday January 10th, 2011

POST BY MAY ERLEWINE with Seth Bernard

Seth & Maty

Hello Dear Family!

I am writing to you from a sweet little guest house in Addis Ababa

(this is the capital city of Ethiopia. The name means “new flower”).

Seth and I are back after two days out and about on the runners trail.

It has been a whirlwind and it’s hard to tell how much time has gone

by. This is a beautiful country full of the most loving and generous

souls. We have been in awe and inspiration every moment of our trip so

far.

We have been working in the schools with children from ages of around

4-12. Working with Stephanie, Tesfa volunteer and organizer

http://tesfa.org/, we have been doing art and music workshops with the

kids. These children are so full of light and joy we have been

overwhelmed with honor and emotion in their presence.

Our day with them starts with a few songs from us, usually resulting

in a singing and dancing party. They are incredible singers and their

dance moves are established early on, amazing to watch their little

bodies working out intricate traditional motions and of course adding

their own flavor. Then we have been graced with a song or two from

them. Today, in Mojo, we were actually presented with about an hour of

songs, skits, dancing, stories and riddles!!! Then we move into the

art project. Seth and I have been walking around the children who are

working at tables with crayons and water colors playing music while

the little ones try to capture the music on paper. The first day in

Debre Zeyit, there was a moment where Seth and I met eyes in song and

both knew we were thinking the same thing… this was the best gig

ever. The art that the students are coming up with is incredible and

we are hoping to use it for the album art work. I can’t tell you

enough about the magic and emotion we are experiencing here. If you

had the chance to meet eyes with one of these small wonders, you too

would gasp at the greatness of their beings. Tesfa is working great

magic as an organization to try and provide the space, materials and

staff to inspire and empower the children in Ethiopia.

We are back in the capital this evening to go and see our musician

contact in Addis, Henock Temesgen (founder of the jazz school here),

perform with his Ethiojazz band at a really great club here. We got to

experience this place and some of this music the night we arrived and

were totally blown away! We’re excited to see what this evening holds

for us. We will be back in the schools tomorrow here and will also be

meeting up with Henock to do some jamming and recording. Staying here

until Friday the 14th where we will meet back up with the group and

then separate for a couple days to do some steady writing.

We have been writing a lot, but haven’t had much down time to

actualize the songs… Seth has written a few beauties and I have the

pieces on the pages! We are totally inspired by the experience, the

culture and the amazing new musical rhythms and melodies we are

soaking up.

The internet cards we have are hit or miss and in high demand as we

are sharing with other media contacts. There has been a lot of

unforeseen technical difficulties getting things up online, but we are

capturing so much and are working to get it to you!

We are well and Seth’s cold/cough is getting better. Sending visions

of colors, sun, flowers, soulful eyes and big warm hearts to all of

you!

Love,

May and Seth

Today, as part of the 2010 Great Lakes Bioneers Conference here in Traverse City, Seth Bernard and May Erlewine launched a Kickstarter event to raise money for them to create a new album.

Kickstarter is a fascinating new online tool for creatives to use when trying to raise funds for specific projects. Seth and May will go Ethiopia with the Run Across Ethiopia team and be the cultural ambassadors for the group. As such they’ll be getting to each village along the 250 miles route in advance of the runners, setting up shop, sharing music with local villagers, and experiencing the life of African Coffee Farmers.

Their goal is to raise $10,000 to pay for expenses of the journey, and production of a CD once back home in the States.

http://kck.st/9x2WVh

Click Here to View The Video Titled: Kickstarter Video - Seth and May - Project Ethiopia

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