Amalia Fernand


POST FROM AMALIA FERNAND

Friday January 28, 2011

The desperation in the eyes of a child as he holds out his hand to beg reflects upon all of us.  Ripped and dirty clothing lay tattered across his shoulders, bare feet stand amidst rocks and burrs, flies gather at the corners of his eyes and below his nostrils where snot and sleep have accumulated, but there is no water to clean it off.

A Young Child on an Ethiopian Roadway

“You, you, you!” he cries, pointing at my sunglasses, belt, water bottle.  “One birr!” (1/16th of a dollar) he yells while pushing his hand close to my face.  And I never give him anything more than a smile and a “Salam” (a greeting meaning peace) because if I did, it would cause mobs and misunderstandings and serve merely to perpetuate the situation .  We are giving in a bigger way, but for people whose lives are based on moment-to-moment survival, that is hard to understand.

Extreme poverty is defined by the World Bank as those living on $1.25 or less a day. 21% of this world, or about 1.4 billion people live in extreme poverty.  When coming from the perspective of a country that holds 80% of the world’s wealth, we rarely stop to think about how lucky we truly are.  Even the poorest person in the United States is better off than the average Ethiopian.  There are no welfare or unemployment programs, it is every man, child and woman for themselves. Since 1990 Ethiopia’s population has risen to 80 million from 52 million and the per capita annual income is $180, one of the lowest in the world.  Rates of deforestation in coffee growing areas are estimated at 25,000 acres per year.

In Ethiopia, the birthplace of wild coffee, farmers get as little as $110 off an entire crop.  Well-paid workers at coffee plantations receive 66 cents per day, the average is 55 cents per day, which is not enough to provide a decent standard of living for a family, even in Ethiopia.  Starbucks sells Ethiopia Sidamo whole bean coffee for $10.45 a pound, yet maybe a penny or two of that goes to the actual farmer.  Brochures state that Starbucks protects topical forests and enhances the lives of farmers by building schools and clinics.  In some places in Latin America, Starbucks does do these things, but not in Africa.  Starbucks opens an average of 25 new stores a week in the United States alone, where we have 5% of the world’s people, that drink 20% of the world’s coffee.  We have a responsibility to make sure that the farmers that grow our coffee are not starving.  You can not look into the desperate eyes of those begging children and ever be the same again.  For more information about Starbucks and coffee growing in Ethiopia, please read the article:  ”Starbucks calls its coffee worker-friendly, but in Ethiopia, a day’s pay is a dollar” by Tom Knudson in the Sacramento Bee at:

http://www.sacbee.com/101/v-email/story/383817.html

Chris Treter with Tadesse Meskela from OCFCU

After Chris Treter of Higher Grounds in Traverse City had spent years visiting poor coffee growing regions around the world, he came up with the concept of “Beyond fair trade” and started the non-profit On The Ground that works to improve standards of living in coffee growing regions.  He works directly with the Oromia Coffee Farmers Cooperative Union that has about 100,000 Ethiopian farmers as members, receiving fair trade prices for their coffee.  But, yet, is it really fair?  They receive pennies and the middlemen get rich.  There is so much more that needs to be done and so much more help to give.  As the Run Across Ethiopia finished it’s final day, joined by coffee buyers from around the world, we arrived in a village in the coffee growing region of Yergacheffe.  We were once again greeted by thousands of smiling faces and an outpouring of generosity, love and thanks.  Each runner was given a gift of traditional clothing and dressed for the crowd.  The people spoke of what the money from the Run would do for them and what they still needed.

This is only the beginning, a jumpstart into the aid that is needed in Southern Ethiopia.  Do we build 3 schools, or 2 schools complete with bathrooms and furniture?  Which will help more?  Can we continue to get donations and do it all?  Will this work ever really be done?  Can we give the people the tools and the responsibility they need to improve their own quality of life?  That is the goal: involve the community, provide hope, structure, stability, and education.  Without education, the problem is systemic, a wheel of poverty and suffering, rolling through the generations, never understanding that there can be a different way.  There is nothing we can do that is more important than to educate that begging child, to teach him how he can make a better life for himself, without relying on hand-outs.  Soon, we will have a community of educated children, working to improve their own quality of living.  Why the Run? You might ask, what could possibly be the point?  Raising $175,000 to build 2 schools in a matter of months with few corporate sponsors is an incredibly difficult task.  Involve 10 separate runners, working towards the smaller goal of $15,000 each and suddenly it becomes possible.  To excite and involve the community, both in the States and in Ethiopia, to involve the media, raise awareness, give people hope, bring understanding to the world, and bring a team of people that have seen that desperation first hand and whom will never forget.

McLain poses a question to her Ethiopian counterparts

In a cultural exchange of questions between children from two northern Michigan schools, (the Pathfinder School and the Children’s House) and children from the village, the dichotomy of our two worlds became shockingly evident.  The Ethiopian children watched the American children on a computer screen, then they asked their own questions.  Young girls asked things like: “What age do your parents force you to marry?”  and “What age do you have to quit school to take care of your family?”  while young boys asked about what crops U.S. children care for, what jobs they have to do after school, and how far they have to walk to get water.  This touching video should be able to be viewed in the documentary that Traverse City filmmakers, James and Jamaica Weston are creating about the entire RAE experience, hopefully to be released in May.  James and Jamaica have only a few days left on their kickstarter for the documentary.  Buy an advance DVD today and help them to create this much needed film! http://kck.st/eu9TUc

My last few days in Ethiopia provided me with an experience that helped me to feel closer to the people.  After days of being so sick that food or water was impossible to keep down, my body was going into dehydration and starvation mode, my vision was swirling and flashing colors, and in this state, I entered the emergency room of a hospital in Addis Ababa.  Scared of the prospect of an African hospital, but more scared of whatever parasite was lurking inside of me, I laid on the thin hospital bed to gaze through blurred vision at the simplicity around me.  Accustomed to the long waits of bustling ER’s in the States, I was surprised to be greeted quickly and immediately assessed to need an IV and glucose.  I asked them to open the packages of the needles in front of me and with tears streaming down my face, I gripped my interpreter and friend Betty’s hand.  The nurse put the IV in and then stood at the end of my bed to stare at me and pick his nose while the Doctor told me that he suspected either Malaria or Typhoid.  The nurse donned gloves and drew blood for testing.  Waiting for those test results felt like the scariest half hour of my life.   Negative, the Dr. said, and I cried in relief.  More tests revealed that I had “an amoeba,” or amoebic dysentery.  Little amoeba’s were waging war in my intestine, eating away at the wall and expelling anything else that entered as my stomach reeled in pain.

After some anti-nausea and anti-stomach cramping meds through my IV the Dr. thought about keeping me overnight but decided I could go as he wrote me a prescription for 3 days of medication to get rid of the amoeba.  The hospital bill totaled about $35, nothing compared to what we would expect in the U.S., but months worth of income for an Ethiopian.  I was lucky, I could receive care, but what about those who can’t?  What about the millions of people whom do not even live close to a clinic, much less a hospital?  Amoeba’s are common for Ethiopians.  For a brief time, I felt their suffering, I saw the world through their eyes.  I was sad and afraid and helpless.  Imagine a lifetime of feeling like that and please remember that no matter how little extra you think you have, it can mean the world of difference to an Ethiopian.

You can still donate to the Run Across Ethiopia cause at the On The Ground website http://onthegroundglobal.org/On_The_Ground/DONATE.html

This is an ongoing project, our work is not done, and we need your support now more than ever.

Follow Amalia’s travels on her own blog here,

The Traveling Educator at http://site.natureexplorersinternational.com/

 

www.runacrossethiopia.org

POST BY BILL PALLADINO

Monday January 24th, 2011     Our Final Post… for a while.

“Hear me, four quarters of the world – a relative I am! Give me the strength to walk the soft earth, a relative to all that is! Give me the eyes to see and the strength to understand, that I may be like you. With your power only can I face the winds.”
– Black Elk, (1863-1950)

The Flaw of Odysseus

We are at the closing point of this journey.  A year in the making, it is now time to turn our ships homeward.  I want to bring you back to an idea I mentioned last week.  It was in reference to heroes and specifically regarding Rick Riordan’s Percy Jackson series, which I’ve been reading over time to my eight year-old friend Sam.  That series, and many of the characters within it, is derived directly from Greek mythology and more precisely Homer’s Odyssey.  Homer’s nearly perfect protagonist, Odysseus, is sent on an incredible adventure spanning years.  One after the other he first seems to seek battles with gods, monsters, and mortals, managing to defeat or outwit them.

Only once does Odysseus falter from his state of grace.  After escaping many villainous characters, and spending seven years imprisoned on an island, he tricks the great Polyphemus by first blinding his one eye then telling the cyclops his name is “Noman.”  The cyclops is bereft as he tells his supporters that he was blinded by “no man.”  Odysseus, as he sails away from Polyphemus’s island, triumphantly shouts back to the giant that “no one can defeat the great Odysseus,” thereby ruining his original illusion.  The result of which was the cyclops’ plea to his father Poseidon to help him, whereby the great god of the sea sentences Odysseus to years of turmoil wandering the oceans.

I tell you this because the one bad trait Odysseus is credited with is “hubris”, that is arrogance and pride.  It would be very easy for us, On The Ground and the Run Across Ethiopia team, to fall victim to this same device.  To look back on our work in Ethiopia and say, “look at us, look at what we’ve done.”  We have taken great pains from the earliest planning of the Run Across Ethiopia journey to avoid such pitfalls of ego.  While we are not without fault, we have taken care to honor the people in Ethiopia first and last.  It is their dreams of education for children we’re trying to make a reality.

There was some worry early on that frankly this might look like a phalanx of white do-gooders running through Africa so they could throw down a big fat check.  We addressed this through comprehensive conversations and partnerships with the organizations, communities, and people this project would impact.  From the Tesfa Foundation taking our own team through hours of cultural immersion, to their Team Tesfa runners being an active component of the event itself, every grueling step of the way.  To Tedesse Meskela’s close relationship with his 800,000 coffee farming families through the Oromia Coffee Farmers Cooperative Union.  Our team of runners didn’t run a protected ribbon of highway through Ethiopia, they ran through and with living communities of the very people we were there to serve.  The team was sent with a mission to be stewards of the trust that our 700 plus donors gifted to them.  As our team left the U.S. en route to Ethiopia in early January they were asked simply to “be well, travel safe, and come home changed in some way.”

Homer himself would ask no more from his heroes.  It is assumed that the Odyssey was not intended to be read, rather scholars seem to agree it was likely designed to be spoken from memory by the bards of the day.  Even here we strike some resemblance to Homer’s classic in sending our own modern day bards Seth Bernard and May Erlewine along on the trip.  They, along with our filmmakers & journalists, were asked to experience, catalog, and record the journey so that it might live on beyond the event itself.  We hope in the coming months to bring you this odyssey, the Run Across Ethiopia quest, so that you might experience, learn from, and allow yourself to be changed in some way too.

The posts from the team have diminished to very few.  Chris Treter left a beautiful tribute to our team medic Mamoosh on our blog.  Please click this link to see it. http://onthegroundtc.org/2011/01/24/bizuayehu-sees-all-things/

And last night most of our team made it home safely to airports and homes around the U.S.  Many of them returned to Traverse City.  We’re very happy they have made it back home to their families and loved ones.  Two of the last to arrive were filmmakers James and Jamaica.  And that reminds me that they are still seeking funding to allow them to complete their documentary of this journey.  Please click this image or the following link to view their Kickstarter project online. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/weston/run-across-ethiopia-feature-film

We find ourselves conflicted now, pushed home by the winds of our own circumstance, having to leave behind the many friends and relationships we’ve made along the way.  I thank you for spending this past three weeks with us exploring this place half a world away.  Sometime later in 2011 On The Ground will likely launch another ambitious endeavor.  If you’d like to be part of that, and hear more as new plans develop, please stay subscribed to this newsletter.  If your quota for vicarious adventure is filled, feel free to unsubscribe using the link at the bottom of this page.

Here’s a final quote from Norman Cousins -
“The new education must be less concerned with sophistication than compassion. It must recognize the hazards of tribalism. It must teach man the most difficult lesson of all—to look at someone anywhere in the world and be able to see the image of himself. The old emphasis upon superficial differences that separate peoples must give way to education for citizenship in the human community. With such an education and with such self-understanding, it is possible that some nation or people may come forward with the vital inspiration that men need no less than food. Leadership on this higher level does not require mountains of gold or thundering propaganda. It is concerned with human destiny. Human destiny is the issue. People will respond.”

To read full-length stories posted by our RAE Team members please visit our blog pages athttp://www.onthegroundtc.org

Remember too that you can follow us on Facebook and on Twitter where we post frequent, if short, snippets about the adventure.

If you want to see our stream of photos as they arrive you can go to the website (see below) or go right to our Flickr Photostream using the link below. http://www.flickr.com/photos/57872575@N05/

This should be the last of our email updates for a while.

You can also help us continue this important work by clicking the Donate button below and contributing what you can afford to On The Ground.

With sincere and continuing gratitude,

Bill Palladino signature

Bill Palladino
Executive Director – On The Ground

Our Mission
“On The Ground works directly with communities around the globe helping them gain sustainable access to fresh water, education, and quality healthcare.”

www.runacrossethiopia.org

POST BY STELLA YOUNG (10 years old)

Saturday Janury 22, 2011

Hi

We all said goodbye and safe travels to all the support team and runners last night at a nice mexican place.  Almost everybody got on a plane last night at about midnight after amazing mexican food, so everybody got on a plane except Amalia because she was not feeling well so she is still postponing her flight to  Uganda.
(Editor’s note: Amalia Fernand, an environmental art educator from northern Michigan was heading off on another adventure on her own after the RAE.  She, like many on the trip, suffered from some sort of food borne illness that stopped her from flying to her next destination.  We’re all hoping she’s feeling better.)  Last night when we were saying goodbye to the runners there were a lot of hugs and goodbyes to be said.

Claire Everhart finishing the Run in Afursa Waru with Zinash & Meheron

Claire was giving piggybacks to Connor and Lucy and was holding them upside down it was really funny.  Right now I really miss all of them but am looking forward to Amsterdam and the food and being able to see most of them back home in Michigan.  So now I am still in Addis Ababa  and tomorrow get on a long flight to Amsterdam.  And thank you to all the support staff and runners for being awesome.
Missing friends balanced with looking forward,
travel with family
canal
Anne Frank
Food – sauer kraut

www.runacrossethiopia.org

POST BY AMALIA FERNAND

Wednesday January 19th, 2011

People love to smile.  People love to laugh.  People love to dance.  People love to love and to be loved.  I have never felt more loved than I have in the last few days of traveling across rural southern Ethiopia.  A smile and a wave can mean so much, to those that have so little.  How excited they are, just to know that we care about them, just to have a momentary reprieve from the tasks of everyday survival.  Many have never seen a person with a different skin tone, and how glad I am that their first impression is that of friendliness and compassion.  We can both stare at each other in intense curiosity, but when we add a smile, the whole dynamic changes.  There is nothing like a true and genuine smile to let you know that love is involved.

Today, we were greeted by thousands of people from the community of  Hase Gola to thank us for raising money to build them a much needed school.  As we walked off the bus, the smiling faces surrounded us and lined the streets, clapping, singing, laughing, and beaming with an excitement that is so difficult to describe in words.  We walked through the crowds as policemen kept those singing, smiling people back and settled ourselves in the middle of a circle of thousands of expectant eyes.  Speeches commenced as the crowd sat to listen to thank you’s, prayers answered, dreams realized, goals yet to achieve, and accomplishments in progress.  Children watched from the tree branches as hundreds upon hundreds of faces clapped, cheered, and emulated gratefulness.  Behind us sat the ongoing construction of a school that these runners had worked so hard to help build.  The school will educate 480 children in two shifts each day, affecting a total of 8,700 people in the community when all of the people in their families are included.

We toured the current school house, tiny rooms with cracked floors and little furniture, it was hard to imagine that these rooms accommodate 90 children at a time.  The children that can’t fit have to walk a half an hour to another crowded school.  That is, if their family can afford a notebook and lunches, and if they want an education, and the possibility of secondary school remains dim.  There are no bathrooms, no running water, no electricity and tiny windows,  It is hot, dark, and crowded, yet math problems cover the chalkboards and children fight for the opportunity to become educated and the chance to improve their quality of life.   The people in this community are in dire need of education, health care, and drinking water (there is a 3 hour walk to the nearest water fresh enough to drink).  And what do they do for a living?  They grow our coffee, our fair trade, organic coffee that we pay top price for.  Yet, no matter how much we pay, such a small percentage goes to the grower and his family.  If you would like more information about the issues of the coffee growing region of Southern Ethiopia and what is being done about it, please watch the film Black Gold, available on netflix:  http://www.blackgoldmovie.com

The central figure of that film, Tedese Meskala came to the village with us and his Coffee co-operative is responsible for 1/6 of the funds needed for the school.  The other 1/6 is provided by the community itself and 2/3 by the run.  It is important to form alliances in international development, Chris Treter, founder of On The Ground, explained, because we need the community itself to feel invested and we need the coffee co-operative to continue the investment.   Tedese encouraged the people to join a coffee co-op if they had not already, because they deserve to be payed a fair price for their coffee.

How ephemeral it had felt the day before, almost as if we were a traveling carnival, offering only a temporary window, a glimpse of a better life, and causing a lot of confusion and questions.  Seth and May had played at the runners water and food stops as we blew bubbles and 9 year old Stella Young did cartwheels and the villagers gathered to dance, smile, and stare.  How much different it felt today to feel the appreciation of people that understand why we are here, that our sole purpose is to help and that so many have worked so hard to do just that.  A beautiful African choir had been serenading us throughout our visit to the community and when Seth and May began to play “My Family,”  they appeared as back up to lift their voices to the magnitude of the crowd that pushed in from all around,

We returned to the hotel in the city of Dilla along bumpy dirt roads as children ran along side us, waving and smiling, only to encounter another celebration  It is Epiphany day in Ethiopia, the day that Jesus Christ was baptized, and a giant crowd gathered in the streets outside our hotel to watch a traditional parade.  We joined a traditional dance with sticks on the way to our restaurant as the smiles continued to trail behind us…

Please remember to follow more details of the run on the live streaming page and if you are interested in learning more about my favorite musicians, Seth Bernard and May Erlewine, please visit: www.sethandmay.com

I have started my own website!   www.natureexplorersinternational.com/

To return to the Run Across Ethiopia website, please click this link. www.runacrossethiopia.org

POST BY AMALIA FERNAND

Sunday January 16th, 2011

Sitting underneath a tree of black and white colobus monkeys, I wonder what they think of my computer.  Leaf eaters, they spend much of their day chilling, eating, and digesting.  Their behavior is much different than the other monkeys that we have encountered in Ethiopia, the Grivet monkeys.  After leaving the bustling capital, Addis Ababa, to wind our way south through farmlands, villages and the occasional camel herd, we arrived at a hotel with  thriving population of begger Grivet monkeys.  Savannah monkeys, they are usually dependent on Acacia seeds and flowers, but at this hotel they have become obsessed with human food.  They stole it off the tables and out of bags and rooms and they apparently have a thing for undergarments.  Mamas with babies perched behind us at breakfast and pattering feet ran across the roof in the morning.

The hotel was located on Lake Owassa, a volcanically formed lake in the Rift Valley.  There we met up with the Run Across Ethiopia team of both U.S. and Ethiopian runners, reporters, medical support, drivers, musicians, videographers, and translators.  Seth Bernard and May Erlewine played a concert that night at a local restaurant and local Ethiopian musicians finished off the show.

Early the next morning, the first rays of the rising sun fell over the lake as I greeted the day surrounded by water birds and grivet monkeys and was so grateful to be out of the city.  We took a small boat out on the lake to search for hippos and witnessed the immensity of the second largest land mammal in Africa, weighing up to 7,000 pounds at over 12 feet long!  Hippos are hairless and their sensitive skin burns easily, so they spend their days wallowing in shallow water, socializing and digesting and they spend nights on land eating grass,  Their territorial nature makes them one of the most dangerous animals in Africa.  A large adult make can have lower canines above the gum at 18″ and lower incisors at 10.”  The hippos looked at us, they snorted, and they went on with their wallowing, giant eyes full of power, resting just above the water,

The Awassa Children’s House is home to 45 children aged 6-16:  http://awassachildrenscenter.org/#/who-we-are/4539259833

They are orphans and street children whom are given a safe place to live and an education.  I brought my Nature Explorers suitcase and spent an afternoon with these loving children.  Armed with magnifying glasses and binoculars, we explored their campus as we collected leaves for leaf rubbing posters,  We created leopard and Gelada baboon masks and the children were extremely diligent and creative workers.  The joy, the smiles, the laughter, the appreciation, the excitement, I wouldn’t trade it for anything in the world.

Today, I joined the run and was moved by the happiness that we brought to many hundreds of children merely by our presence.  The runners finished mile 198 today and I joined them in running through small villages and coffee plantations for a few of those miles.  I also traveled by the bus that stays close by the group and stops to supply water and food breaks.  On these occasions, the people came running to gather, to stare, watchfully, expectantly, curiously.  I blew bubbles for the children and to witness the universal reaction of a child to a bubble reminds me that everywhere, people are just people.  They jumped, they laughed, they chased, they loved, and I only wish that I could do so much more, bring them so much more, give them so much more.  And then I look around and I realize that I am.  This entire event is for them, for their education, to increase their standard of living, to give them a chance at a healthy life.  Most of them do not understand this right now, and they may never.  I only wish that we could spend more time with them instead of quickly moving through each village.  I wish that we could explain that the reason we are here is for them and that there are so many people out there who have donated time, money, and a piece of their hearts for this cause.

The last 2 nights we have stayed in the coffee growing region set amongst beautiful wooded hlllsides,  Each night, the second largest carnivore in Africa, the hyena,  came up to eat the food scraps and show herself.  Seth and May have been writing and tonight they shared some of their songs by the fire.  The moon reflects over the mountains and valleys of coffee plants in this region and I feel so thankful to be a part of this team and this amazing experience.

To return to our website click this link, www.runacrossethiopia.org

POST BY AMALIA FERNAND

Friday January 14, 2011

Vast plains of sand spread below the airplane window as the orange light of the setting sun illuminated sandy peaks and a winding river.  The Sahara desert is the largest in the world, covering one third of the African continent!  Looking out over that endless desert, the immensity and ancientness of Africa becomes more present and the journey that I am about to embark on more real.  A thin band of orange rings the horizon as the deep blue of night sinks down upon the earth.  I think of the many nocturnal desert creatures as they leave their underground homes to enjoy the cool reprise of the evening and can’t help but be enchanted by the mysteries that a desert beholds.  Is there a Saharan cheetah down there, poised and ready to run?  Is there a wild gerbil, poking his head above the sand and scanning the sky for raptors?  Are there crocodiles in that river?  Can people really live within that vast emptiness?  Two small children peak over their seat at me, exclaiming loudly in their native language and I know that I am on the other side of the world.

I left the icicle draped snowy world of Traverse CIty Michigan on Monday to fly to Detroit, and then across the Atlantic Ocean to Amsterdam.  From there the plane turned South to Khartoum, Sudan, and then on to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia.  After 27 hours of travel, we arrived in an ancient land.  The cradle of human kind, Ethiopia is where our hominid ancestors evolved.  The only country in Africa, except for Liberia, that has never been colonized, the culture here is vibrant and deeply rooted.  We have spent the last 2 days in the capital city of Addis Ababa.  In this bustling city of 8 million people, poverty is apparent, yet so is love and compassion and the importance of family and community.

I will be sharing my experiences with you as regularly as I can!

Return to our website by clicking here, www.runacrossethiopia.org

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